Itandukaniro Nyaryo Hagati ya Silika Ihendutse n'Ihenze ni Irihe?

Ese waba warayobewe igiciro kinini cy'ibicuruzwa bya silike? Iyi mfashanyigisho izakwigisha uburyo bwo kubona silike nziza, bityo ushobore kwigirira icyizere mu kugura kwawe gukurikira.Silika nziza cyane[^1] igaragazwa n'uburyo imeze, ubwiza bwayo, n'uburemere bwayo. Ubudodo buhenze butuma bworoshye cyane kandi burushaho kuba bwiza, bufite ubwiza bworoheje, kandi burushaho kuba buremereye kubera ko bufite ubwiza bwinshi.Umubare wa mama[^2]. Ubudodo buhendutse akenshi ntibugira ubworoherane, bufite ubwiza nk'ubwa pulasitiki, kandi buragabanuka.

Bishobora gusa n'ibigoye, ariko gutandukanya ubudodo bwiza n'ubudodo bubi biroroshye iyo umaze kumenya icyo ugomba gushaka. Nk'umuntu umaze imyaka hafi 20 akorana na ubudodo, ndakwereka amayeri yoroshye yo kugura ibintu mu buryo bw'ubwenge. Reka turebe ibintu by'ingenzi kugira ngo ubashe kugura ufite icyizere kandi ubone ubuziranenge bukwiye.

Wamenya ute niba ubudodo ari bwiza cyane?

Uhagaze mu iduka cyangwa ushakisha kuri interineti, ariko ubudodo bwose busa kimwe. Watandukanya ute icyiza n'ikibi? Ukeneye ibizamini byoroshye kugira ngo urebe ubwiza.Ushobora kubona ubudodo bwiza ukoresheje ibintu bitatu by'ingenzi: uburyohe bwabwo, ubwiza bwabwo, n'uburemere bwabwo (Momme). Ubudodo bwiza bw'ukuri butuma bworoha kandi bukonje, bufite urumuri rusa n'urumuri ruhinduka, kandi bukumva bukomeye, ntabwo ari ubworoshye. Bunarinda iminkanyari iyo ubushyize hamwe.Mu mwuga wanjye muri Wonderful Silk, nafashije abakiriya benshi gusobanukirwa izi tandukaniro. Benshi baratungurwa iyo bumvise bwa mbere silk yacu ya 22 Momme nyuma yo kumenyera ubundi buryo buhendutse. Itandukaniro ntirigaragara gusa; ni ikintu ushobora kumva by'ukuri. Kugira ngo tugufashe kuba umuhanga, reka turebe neza ibi bizamini.

ItsindaIkizamini cyo gukoraho[^3]

Ubu ni bwo buryo bworoshye bwo gucira imanza ubudodo.Silika nziza cyane[^1] ifite imiterere idasanzwe. Igomba kuba yoroshye cyane kandi yoroshye, ikora ku ruhu rwawe neza. Iyo uyinyujije mu biganza byawe, itemba nk'amazi. Ifite kandi ubushobozi bworoshye bwo kuyikuramo; iyo uyikuruye witonze, igomba kugira akanyamuneza gato hanyuma igasubira ku ishusho yayo. Silika cyangwa polyester satin y'ubuziranenge buke, ku rundi ruhande, ishobora kumva ikomeye, isa n'ibisigazwa, cyangwa inyerera cyane mu buryo bwa sintetike. Ikizamini cyiza cyo mu rugo ni ikizamini cy'iminkanyari. Fata inguni y'isilika uyikubite mu ntoki zawe amasegonda make.Silika nziza cyane[^1] izagira iminkanyari mike, mu gihe ubudodo buhendutse bushobora gufata iminkanyari byoroshye.

ItsindaIkizamini cy'ubururu n'ubudodo[^4]

Hanyuma, reba uburyo ubudodo bugaragaza urumuri.Silika nziza cyane[^1], cyane cyaneUbudodo bwa Mulberry[^5], ifite umucyo mwiza kandi ugoye, ntabwo ari umucyo woroshye. Igomba kumera nk'isaro, ifite urumuri rworoshye rusa n'aho ruturutse imbere mu mwenda. Uko wimura umwenda, urumuri rugomba gukina hejuru, bigatuma habaho ahantu h'urumuri n'igicucu. Ibi biterwa nuko imiterere y'impandeshatu z'imigozi ya silk ihindura urumuri ku mfuruka zitandukanye. Ibinyuranye n'ibyo, satin y'ubudodo ifite urumuri rurerure, rwera, kandi rugaragara cyane rusa neza mu mfuruka zose. Nanone, genzura uko iboshye. Imyenda ya silk nziza izaba ifite umwambaro ukomeye kandi uhoraho nta nenge cyangwa uduce tugaragara.

Ni ubuhe bwiza bwa silk?

Wumvise amagambo nka Mulberry, Charmeuse, na Momme, ariko se asobanura iki? Birateye urujijo. Urashaka kugura silk nziza cyane, ariko imvugo isanzwe ituma bigorana kuyigereranya.Silika nziza kandi nziza cyane ku isi ni 100%Ubudodo bwa Mulberry[^5] hamwe n'umuvuduko mwinshiUmubare wa mama[^2]. Yakuriye mu buroko ku indyo ikomeye y'amababi ya mulberry,Bombyx mori[^6]Inyoni y'ubudodo ikora ubudodo burebure, bukomeye kandi bungana cyane, bigatuma habaho umwenda udasanzwe kandi uhenze.

Buri gihe mbwira abakiriya banjye ko niba bashaka ibyiza rwose, igisubizo ni uko buri giheUbudodo bwa Mulberry[^5]. Ubwitonzi n'ubuyobozi bishyirwa mu ikorwa ryayo bitanga urwego rw'ubuziranenge izindi silk zidashobora guhura narwo. Ariko kugira ngo usobanukirwe neza impamvu ari nziza kurusha izindi, ugomba no gusobanukirwa uburemere bwayo, nk'uko tubipima muri Momme.

Impamvu Silika ya Mulberry Ikomeye

Ibanga ryoUbudodo bwa MulberryUbwiza bwa [^5] buri mu musaruro wayo. Inyoni z'ubudodo, zizwi mu bya siyansi nkaBombyx mori[^6], zirererwa ahantu hagenzurwa. Zigaburirwa indyo yihariye y'amababi y'igiti cya mulberry. Ubu buryo bwitondewe butuma imigozi ya silke bazungurutsa kugira ngo bayikoreshe mu bikoko byabo iba miremire cyane, yera neza, kandi ifite ubunini bungana. Iyo iyi migozi miremire iboshywe mu mwenda, ikora ikintu cyoroshye cyane, gikomeye kandi kiramba. Mu buryo bunyuranye, "ubudodo bwo mu gasozi" bukomoka ku minyo irya amababi atandukanye, bigatuma imigozi migufi, idasa neza kandi idakomeye. Niyo mpamvu iyo ushora imari 100%Ubudodo bwa Mulberry[^5], urimo gushora imari mu bwiza buhebuje bwa silk.

Uruhare rwa Mama mu Ireme

Momme (mm) ni igipimo cy'uburemere cy'Abayapani ubu kikaba ari cyo gipimo ngenderwaho cyo gupima ubucucike bwa silk. Tekereza nk'umubare w'imigozi ku ipamba. Umubare wa Momme mwinshi bivuze ko umwenda ukoresha silk nyinshi kuri metero kare, bigatuma irushaho kuba nini, ikomeye kandi iramba. Nubwo silk yoroheje ya Momme ari nziza ku matafari yoroshye, ni nziza kurushaho.Umubare wa mama[^2] ni ingenzi ku bintu bikoreshwa cyane, nk'udufuka tw'imisego n'udupfukamunwa. Kuri ibi bicuruzwa, nkunda gutanga inama yo gutangirira kuri 19 Momme, ariko 22 cyangwa 25 Momme itanga uburambe bwiza cyane kandi izamara igihe kirekire iyo ifashwe neza.

Ubwoko bune bwa silk ni ubuhe?

Uretse Mulberry, ubona izindi nka Tussah na Eri. Itandukaniro ni irihe? Ibi byongera urujijo. Ugomba kumenya gusa icyo wahitamo ku gicuruzwa cyiza.Nubwo hari ubwoko bwinshi bw'ubudodo, muri rusange burimo ubwoko bune bw'ingenzi: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, na Muga. Mulberry ni yo ikunze kugaragara kandi ifite ubwiza bwo hejuru. Izindi eshatu zizwi nka "ubudodo bwo mu gasozi," kuko zikorwa n'udusimba tudahingwa.

Mu myaka 20 maze nkora ubudodo, nakoranye n'imyenda myinshi, ariko icyo nibandagaho ni ugutanga ibyiza ku bakiriya banjye. Niyo mpamvu muri Wonderful Silk, dukoresha hafi ya byose.Ubudodo bwa Mulberry[^5]. Nubwo ubudodo bwo mu gasozi bufite ubwiza bwabwo bwihariye, ntibushobora kugereranywa n'ubworoshye, imbaraga, n'ubukonje buhoraho abakiriya bacu bategereje ku gicuruzwa cy'akataraboneka. Reka turebe muri make ubu bwoko bune bw'ingenzi kugira ngo urebe impamvu Mulberry ari yo ikundwa cyane ku bicuruzwa by'igiciro cyinshi.

Igihangange cy'Uburasirazuba: Mulberry Silk

Nkuko twabiganiriyeho,Ubudodo bwa Mulberry[^5] ni igipimo cya zahabu. Gifite hafi 90% by'ubudodo bw'ubudodo ku isi. Byakozwe naBombyx mori[^6]Ubudodo bwa silkworm, imigozi yabwo ni miremire, ingana, kandi ni umweru usanzwe. Ibi bituma irangi ringana kandi bigatuma habaho umwenda wa silk woroshye kandi uramba kurusha iyindi. Ni wo mwenda wonyine ukorwa n'ubudodo bwa silkworm buhingwa, niyo mpamvu ubwiza bwabwo buhorana kandi buhebuje. Iyo uguze ikintu nk'umusego wa silk cyangwa agasanduku k'umusatsi, ubu ni bwo bwoko bwa silk wifuza.

Ubudodo bwo mu gasozi

Ubundi bwoko butatu bukunze gushyirwa hamwe nk' “ubudodo bwo mu gasozi” kuko ubudodo budahingwa kandi ntibuba mu buzima bwabwo busanzwe.

• Ubudodo bwa Tussah[^8]:Yakozwe n'ubwoko butandukanye bw'inyundo zirya amababi y'igiti cya oak. Iyi nyundo ifite imigozi migufi, ikomeye kandi ifite ibara ry'umuhondo cyangwa umukara. Ntabwo yoroshye nkaUbudodo bwa Mulberry[^5] kandi biragoye cyane gusiga irangi.
• Eri Silk[^9]:Bizwi kandi nka "peace silk" kuko inyenzi zemerewe kuva mu bikoko byazo mbere yuko ubudodo butangira gusarurwa. Insinga ni ngufi kandi zifite imiterere isa n'ubwoya cyangwa ipamba, bigatuma zidakora neza kurushaUbudodo bwa Mulberry[^5].
• Silk ya Muga[^10]:Iyi hariri yo mu gasozi idasanzwe kandi ihenze ikorwa n'inyonyi zo muri Assam, mu Buhinde. Izwiho kuba irabagirana nk'iy'umuhondo kandi iramba cyane, ariko imiterere yayo ikomeye ituma itagomba gukoreshwa mu buryo bworoshye nko mu dusanduku tw'imisego.
  

  Ubwoko bwa Silika	Indyo y'inzoka zo mu bwoko bwa Silkworm	Ibiranga fibre	Ikoreshwa ry'ingenzi
  Imbuto za Mulberry	Amababi ya mulberry	Ndende, iraryoshye, irangana, umweru utagira inenge	Ibitanda by'akataraboneka[^7], imyenda
  Tussah	Amababi y'umwerezi n'andi mababi	Ibara rigufi, rinini kandi ry'umuhondo karemano	Imyenda iremereye, amakoti
  Eri	Amababi ya Castor	Mugufi, wuzuye ubwoya, wuzuye ubugari, umweru mwinshi	Amashuka, ibiringiti
  Muga	Amababi ya Som na Soalu	Zahabu karemano, iramba cyane, kandi isanzwe	Imyenda gakondo y'Abahinde

Umwanzuro

Amaherezo, itandukaniro riri hagati ya silk ihendutse n'ihenze riterwa n'aho ikomoka, uburemere, n'uburyo ikoze.Ubudodo bwa Mulberry[^5] hamwe n'ibiciro biri hejuruUmubare wa mama[^2] itanga ubworoherane budasanzwe, kuramba, n'ubwiza.

[^1]: Gusobanukirwa imiterere ya silk nziza bishobora kugufasha gufata ibyemezo byo kugura ukurikije ubwenge. [^2]: Menya Momme count kugira ngo usobanukirwe uburyo igira ingaruka ku bwiza bwa silk no kuramba kwayo. [^3]: Menya neza ikizamini cyo gukoraho kugira ngo umenye byoroshye silk nziza mugihe uguze. [^4]: Suzuma iki kizamini kugira ngo usobanukirwe uburyo silk igaragaza urumuri n'ubwiza bwayo. [^5]: Menya impamvu silk ya Mulberry ariyo gipimo cya zahabu mu bwiza bwa silk n'uburyo ikora bwihariye. [^6]: Menya ku nzoka ya Bombyx mori silkworm n'uruhare rwayo mu gukora silk nziza. [^7]: Menya impamvu silk ariyo ikundwa cyane mu buriri bwiza n'ibyiza byayo. [^8]: Menya ku musaruro wa Tussah Silk n'imiterere yayo yihariye ugereranije na silk ya Mulberry. [^9]: Menya imiterere yihariye ya Eri Silk n'ikoreshwa ryayo mu myenda. [^10]: Suzuma uburyo idasanzwe n'imiterere ya Muga Silk, ubwoko bwihariye bwa silk yo mu gasozi.