Ni irihe tandukaniro nyaryo riri hagati ya Silk ihendutse kandi ihenze?

Urayobewe nigiciro kinini cyibicuruzwa bya silik? Aka gatabo kazakwigisha uburyo bwo kubona silike yo mu rwego rwo hejuru, bityo urashobora kumva ufite ikizere mubiguzi bitaha.Ubudodo bwiza[^ 1] bisobanurwa nuburyo bwiyumva, ubwiza, nuburemere. Ubudodo buhenze bwumva bworoshye kandi bworoshye, bufite isaro yoroheje, kandi biremereye kubera hejuruMama kubara[^ 2]. Ubudodo buhendutse akenshi bwumva butameze neza, bukagira urumuri rusa na plastike, kandi rworoshye.

Birashobora gusa nkibigoye, ariko kuvuga silk nziza nziza kubibi biroroshye iyo umaze kumenya icyo ushaka. Nkumuntu wakoranye nubudodo imyaka igera kuri 20, ndashobora kukwereka amayeri yoroshye yo kugura ubwenge. Reka dusenye ibintu byingenzi kugirango ubashe kugura ufite ikizere kandi ubone ubwiza buhebuje ukwiye.

Nigute ushobora kumenya niba ubudodo bufite ireme?

Uhagaze mububiko cyangwa ukareba kumurongo, ariko silk yose irasa. Nigute ushobora kuvuga icyiza kibi? Ukeneye ibizamini byoroshye kugirango ugenzure ubuziranenge.Urashobora kubona ubudodo bwiza cyane mubintu bitatu byingenzi: gukoraho, kumurika, hamwe nuburemere (Momme). Ubudodo bwiza bwuzuye bwumva bworoshye kandi bukonje, bufite umucyo umeze nkisaro uhinduka mumucyo, kandi ukumva ari ngombwa, ntabwo ari flimsy. Irwanya kandi inkeke iyo uyitsindagiye.Mubuzima bwanjye bwose muri Wonderful Silk, Nafashije abakiriya batabarika kumva itandukaniro. Benshi baratungurwa iyo bumvise bwa mbere silike ya Momme 22 nyuma yo kumenyera ubundi buryo buhendutse. Itandukaniro ntabwo rigaragara gusa; ni ikintu ushobora kumva rwose. Kugufasha kuba umuhanga, reka turebe neza ibi bizamini.

UwitekaGukoraho Ikizamini[^ 3]

Ubu ni bwo buryo bworoshye bwo guca imanza.Ubudodo bwiza[^ 1] afite ibyiyumvo bidasanzwe. Igomba kuba yoroshye bidasanzwe kandi yoroshye, hamwe no gukoraho gukonje kuruhu rwawe. Iyo uyikoresheje mumaboko yawe, itemba nkamazi. Ifite kandi ibintu byoroshye; niba uyikurura witonze, igomba kugira bike hanyuma ugasubira muburyo bwayo. Ku rundi ruhande, silike yo mu rwego rwo hasi cyangwa polyester satine, irashobora kumva ikomeye, ibishashara, cyangwa kunyerera cyane muburyo bwa sintetike. Ikizamini gikomeye murugo ni ikizamini cyiminkanyari. Fata inguni ya silike hanyuma uyisunike mu ntoki amasegonda make.Ubudodo bwiza[^ 1] izaba ifite iminkanyari ntoya, mugihe silike ihendutse izafata ibisebe byoroshye.

UwitekaIkizamini Cyiza na Weave[^ 4]

Ibikurikira, reba uburyo silike yerekana urumuri.Ubudodo bwiza[^ 1], cyane cyaneSilberry silk[^ 5], ifite urumuri rwiza, rugoye, ntabwo rworoshye. Igomba kumera nk'isaro, ifite urumuri rworoheje rusa nkaho ruva mu mwenda. Mugihe wimuye umwenda, urumuri rugomba gukina hejuru yubuso, rukarema uduce twumucyo nigicucu. Ni ukubera ko imiterere ya mpandeshatu ya fibre fibre yanga urumuri kumpande zitandukanye. Ibicuruzwa bya sintetike, bitandukanye, bifite urumuri, rwera, kandi rwinshi cyane rumurika rusa nkurwego rwose. Kandi, genzura imyenda. Umwenda mwiza wa silike uzaba ufite ubudodo bukomeye, buhoraho nta nenge zigaragara cyangwa uduce.

Nubuhe bwiza bwiza bwa silik?

Wigeze wumva amagambo nka Mulberry, Charmeuse, na Momme, ariko bivuze iki? Biteye urujijo. Urashaka kugura silike nziza, ariko jargon itoroshye kuyigereranya.Ubudodo bwiza kandi bwiza cyane kwisi ni 100%Silberry silk[^ 5] hamwe n'uburebureMama kubara[^ 2]. Yakuriye mu bunyage ku ndyo ikaze yamababi ya tuteri ,.Bombyx mori[^ 6]silkworm itanga fibre ndende, ikomeye, kandi ihuza imyenda ya silike, ikora umwenda utagereranywa, mwiza.

Buri gihe mbwira abakiriya banjye ko niba bashaka ibyiza byuzuye, igisubizo burigiheSilberry silk[^ 5]. Kwitaho no kugenzura bijya mubikorwa byayo bivamo urwego rwubuziranenge ubundi budodo budashobora guhura. Ariko kugirango wumve neza impamvu aribyiza, ugomba no kumva uburemere bwacyo, ibyo dupima muri Momme.

Impamvu Mulberry Silk iganje hejuru

Ibanga ryaSilberry silk[^ 5] Ubukuru buri mu musaruro wabyo. Inkweto, inzobere zizwi nkaBombyx mori[^ 6], barerwa mubidukikije bigenzurwa. Bagaburiwe indyo yihariye yamababi yo ku giti cya tuteri. Ubu buryo bwitondewe bwerekana neza ko fibre ya silike bazunguruka kuri coco zabo ari ndende zidasanzwe, zera zera, kandi zisa nubunini. Iyo utwo turemangingo twinshi twiboheye mu mwenda, dukora ibintu byoroshye neza, bikomeye, kandi biramba. Ibinyuranye, "silike yo mu gasozi" ituruka ku inyo zirya amababi atandukanye, bikavamo fibre ngufi, nkeya imwe idahwitse cyangwa iramba. Iyi niyo mpamvu iyo ushora imari 100%Silberry silk[^ 5], urimo gushora imari murwego rwo hejuru rwubuziranenge.

Uruhare rwa Momme mu bwiza

Momme (mm) nigice cyabayapani cyuburemere ubu nicyo gipimo cyo gupima ubucucike bwa silike. Bitekerezeho nko kubara urudodo kumpamba. Umubare munini wa Momme bivuze ko umwenda ukoresha silike nyinshi kuri metero kare, bigatuma iremerera, yuzuye, kandi iramba. Mugihe silike ya Momme yoroshye nibyiza kubitambara byoroshye, hejuruMama kubara[^ 2] s nibyingenzi kubintu bibona gukoreshwa cyane, nk'imisego y umusego na bonnets. Kuri ibyo bicuruzwa, mubisanzwe ndasaba guhera kuri 19 Momme, ariko 22 cyangwa 25 Momme itanga uburambe buhebuje kandi bizaramba cyane hamwe no kwitabwaho neza.

Ni ubuhe bwoko bune bw'ubudodo?

Kurenga Mulberry, urabona ubundi bwoko nka Tussah na Eri. Ni irihe tandukaniro? Ibi byongeyeho urundi rwego rwo kwitiranya ibintu. Ukeneye gusa kumenya icyo uhitamo kubicuruzwa byiza.Mugihe hariho ubwoko bwinshi bwa silik, mubusanzwe bugwa muburyo bune: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, na Muga. Ibinyomoro nibisanzwe kandi bifite ireme. Ibindi bitatu bizwi nka "silike yo mu gasozi," kuko bikozwe ninzoka zidoda zidahingwa.

Mumyaka 20 namaze mubudozi, nakoranye nimyenda myinshi, ariko intego yanjye yamye nugutanga ibyiza kubakiriya bange. Niyo mpamvu kuri Wonderful Silk, hafi ya yose dukoreshaSilberry silk[^ 5]. Mugihe silike yo mwishyamba ifite ubwiza bwihariye, ntishobora guhuza ubworoherane, imbaraga, hamwe nubworoherane abakiriya bacu bategereje kubicuruzwa byiza. Reka dusuzume muri make ubwoko bune bwingenzi kugirango ubone impamvu Mulberry ihitamo ibicuruzwa byiza.

Nyampinga Uganje: Mulberry Silk

Nkuko twabiganiriyeho,Silberry silk[^ 5] ni igipimo cya zahabu. Ifite hafi 90% by'ibikoresho byoherejwe ku isi. Byakozwe naBombyx mori[^ 6]silkworm, fibre yayo ni ndende, imwe, kandi mubisanzwe yera yera. Ibi bituma habaho gusiga irangi kandi ibisubizo muburyo bworoshye, buramba cyane. Nubudodo bwonyine bwakozwe nubudodo bwahinzwe, niyo mpamvu ubwiza bwabwo buhoraho kandi busumba. Iyo uguze ibicuruzwa nk umusego w umusego wubudodo cyangwa umusatsi wa bonnet, ubu ni ubwoko bwa silike ushaka.

Amashanyarazi

Ubundi bwoko butatu bukunze guhurizwa hamwe nk "imyenda yo mwishyamba" kubera ko inzoka zidoda zidahingwa kandi ziba aho zisanzwe.

• Tussah Silk[^ 8]:Yakozwe nubwoko butandukanye bwa silkworm igaburira amababi ya oak. Iyi silike ifite fibre ngufi, coarser fibre nibisanzwe bya zahabu cyangwa ibara ryijimye. Ntabwo byoroshye nkaSilberry silk[^ 5] kandi biragoye gusiga irangi.
• Eri Silk[^ 9]:Azwi kandi ku izina rya "silk y'amahoro" kubera ko inzoka zemerewe gusohoka mu nkoko zabo mbere yo gusarura. Fibre ni ngufi kandi ifite ubwoya cyangwa ipamba isa neza, bigatuma itoroha kurenzaSilberry silk[^ 5].
• Muga Silk[^ 10]:Iyi silike idasanzwe kandi ihenze yo mwishyamba ikorwa ninzoka zo muri Assam, mubuhinde. Azwiho kuba ari zahabu isanzwe kandi iramba cyane, ariko imiterere yayo ikaze ituma idakoreshwa mubikorwa byoroheje nkibisego.
  

  Ubwoko bwa Silk	Indyo ya Silkworm	Ibiranga fibre	Ikoreshwa nyamukuru
  Mulberry	Amababi ya Mulberry	Murebure, yoroshye, imwe, yera yera	Ibitanda byiza[^ 7], imyenda
  Tussah	Igiti n'amababi	Mugufi, coarser, ibara rya zahabu risanzwe	Imyenda iremereye, ikoti
  Eri	Amababi ya Castor	Mugufi, ubwoya, ubucucike, butari umweru	Amashuka, ibiringiti
  Muga	Som & Soalu aragenda	Ntibisanzwe, biramba cyane, zahabu karemano	Imyambarire gakondo y'Abahinde

Umwanzuro

Kurangiza, itandukaniro riri hagati ya silike ihendutse kandi ihenze iramanuka kumasoko, uburemere, no kumva. Ubwiza-bwizaSilberry silk[^ 5] hamwe na hejuruMama kubara[^ 2] itanga ubworoherane butagereranywa, kuramba, no kwinezeza.

[^ 1]: Gusobanukirwa ibiranga ubudodo bufite ireme birashobora kugufasha gufata ibyemezo byubuguzi. [^ 2]: Wige kubara Momme kugirango wumve uburyo bigira ingaruka kumyenda ya silike no kuramba. [^ 3]: Menya Ikizamini cya Touch kugirango umenye byoroshye silike yo mu rwego rwo hejuru mugihe ugura. [^ 4]: Shakisha iki kizamini kugirango wumve uburyo silike yerekana urumuri nubwiza bwarwo. ] [^ 6]: Wige ibijyanye na silkorm ya Bombyx mori n'uruhare rwayo mu gukora silike nziza. [^ 7]: Menya impamvu silike aribwo buryo bwiza bwo guhitamo ibitanda byiza kandi byiza. [^ 8]: Wige ibijyanye n'umusaruro wa Tussah Silk n'ibiranga umwihariko ugereranije na silike ya Mulberry. [^ 9]: Menya ibintu byihariye bya Eri Silk nibisabwa mubitambara. [^ 10]: Shakisha gake n'ibiranga Muga Silk, ubwoko bwihariye bwa silike yo mu gasozi.